 May
11, 2007 -- The Basilique of Saint-Denis has
been on my list of things to see in Paris next time there,
so there I went on this Friday morning. Why the fascination?
First, it's very, very old and very, very big. Second, it
has some pretty spectacular stained glass windows and
vaulted arches. Third, it doubles as a crypt for most of the
kings and queens of France from before France was officially
even France. It's sacred, artistic, historic and creepy all
at the same time. Great combination as far as I'm concerned.
As early as the 5th century, Frankish aristocrats were
buried in the Basilica; Dagobert was the first king to be
buried there in 639. Over the centuries the
Saint-Denis basilica became the "Kings' Crypt". The
place is filled with magnificent sculpted tombs: Clovis is
here, Charlemagne is here, Phillip le Beau, Francois I, most
of the Louis kings are here. Many infamous queens are here
as well, including Catherine de Medici, Isabeau of Bavaria,
and Marie-Antoinette. There's the
story about Louis XVII,
Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette's son, having his heart
DNA-tested a few years ago to prove he could be brought here
to join his family. Today, 43 kings, 32 queens and 10 great
servants of the kingdom of France repose here. To add to the
list of historic characters, Jeanne d'Arc laid down her arms
at the cathedral in the late 1400s in homage to Saint-Denis,
the patron saint of Paris. I got my daily dose of French
culture and history via this collection of sculpted tombs
housed in a magnificent church on the north side of town. |
